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ARE YOUR COSMETICS DOING ENOUGH?

 

Dec 04, 2019

 

With millions of aging baby boomers, the hottest trend in the skin care industry is cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids containing biologically active ingredients formulated to enhance the health and beauty of the skin. Enhancements include: anti-aging, tightening, improving radiance, and therapeutically altering the skin’s physiology or reversing a disease process.

The term cosmeceutical, uniting the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical, was coined by Dr. Albert Kligman in the 1980s. He states that, “The Cosmeceuticals are topical agents that are distributed across a broad spectrum of materials lying somewhere between pure cosmetics and pure drugs.

According to recent studies, cosmeceutical is considered a multi-billion dollar industry and one of the “supersonic” sectors globally. It is documented that in 2013, the global cosmeceutical market was estimated at USD 35 billion and is expected to grow around 7% and 9% between 2013-2020 (approx. USD 85 billion) per compound annual growth rate (CAGR).

The global population is becoming older and more affluent than ever. With many people eager to trade wealth for youth, there has been a surge in demand for high-end and anti-aging that the skin care industry has responded in force. However, given the growing interests in these products among patients and the strong claims made by manufacturers, it is important that physicians and the rest of the healthcare sector recognize these agents and understand their benefits, limitations, and potential adverse effects like skin allergies and discoloration, infertility, premature aging and cancer to some extent. Therefore, product safety and efficiency are two of the greatest concerns in this industry. These determines brands' credibility and quality, as consumers expect the product to conform to its description. The better the quality perceived, the better it is for brand’s image and sales.

Esco Aster, a CDMO company, offers Total Quality Assurance services and support for new product innovation and development. As a subsidiary of Esco, Aster's services are also top of the line and will guarantee that all product claims will be backed up by substantial scientific evidences; strengthening consumers' confidence in (your) specific brands. The company provides clinical testing methodologies for skin and hair care, specifically:

  • In Vitro Safety Studies

    Test Category

    Test Guidelines

    Eye Irritation

    OECD 437 - In Vitro Identification of Chemicals Inducing Serious Eye Damage

    OECD 492 - In-Vitro Eye Irritation

    Skin Irritation

    OECD 431 - In Vitro Skin Corrosion

    OECD 439 - In Vitro Skin Irritation

    Skin Absorption

    OECD 428 - In Vitro Skin Penetration / Absorption (ADS/FDC)

    Skin Cytotoxicity

    OECD 129 - In Vitro Cytotoxicity

    Phototoxicity Test

    OECD 432 - Phototoxicity 3T3 NRU

    Skin Sensitization

    OECD 442C - In Chemico Skin Sensitization (DPRA/AAPR)

    OECD 442D - In Vitro Skin Sensibility (KerationSens Method)

    Genetic Toxicity

    OECD 471 - Genetic Toxicity- Ames Test

    OECD 473 - Genetic Toxicity- CA

    OECD 476 - Genetic Toxicity- HPRT

    OECD 487 - Genetic Toxicity- MNT

    OECD 490 - Genetic Toxicity- MLT

    Endocrine Disruptor

    OECD 455 - ER Transcript Act (Human HeLa9903) Assay

    OECD 456 - H295R Steroidogenesis Assay

  • Skin Efficacy Testing

    1. In Vitro Stratum Corneum Lipid Organization Study

      1. Fourier-Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR)

      2. Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)

    2. Anti-Inflammation

    3. In Vitro Test for Regulation of Skin Pigmentation

    4. Anti-Oxidant Efficacy Test

    5. Hydration Skin Test

    6. Histology Skin Observations

  • Fermentation Technology for Skin Care - Enzymatic fermentation can result in the formation of organic acids that are known to chelate essential minerals such as calcium, magnesium, zinc, and copper, thereby improving bioavailability and decrease toxicity in skin care applications.

Whatever intended a cosmetic or consumer product has been developed for, the data generated from the said tests are robust enough to undergo the scrutiny of the advertising and regulatory standard agencies. By proving the legitimacy of the product, confidence is instilled, thereby protecting market share and ensuring company's future growth.

 

References:

  1. Cosmeceuticals-The New Face of Health and Personal Care Industry. (2018). Accessed last 18 Nov 2019 from https://www.pharmatutor.org/articles/cosmeceuticals-the-new-face-of-health-and-personal-care-industry

  2. Brandt FS, Cazzaniga A, Hann M (2011). Cosmeceuticals: current trends and market analysis. Semin Cutan Med Surg. Retrieved on 18 November 2019. Retrieved from https://www.omicsonline.org/open-access/guidelines-on-cosmetic-efficacy-testing-on-humans-ethical-technical-and-regulatory-requirements-in-the-main-cosmetics-markets jctt1000107.php?aid=68398#citation-btn

  3. Do You Know What’s in Your Cosmetics? (2019). Accessed last 18 Nov 2019 from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/02/09/opinion/cosmetics-safety-makeup.html

  4. Fermentation Cosmetics: Bubbling Over With Innovation, Literally. (2017). Accessed last 29 November 2019 from https://www.in-cosmetics.com/en/Sessions/71625/From-fermentation-technology-to-natural-skincare

  5. Martin KI, Glaser DA.(2011). Cosmeceuticals: The new medicine of beauty. Retrieved on 18 November 2019. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6188460/

  6. Which Tests to Ensure Cosmetic Product Safety? (2018). Accessed last 19 Nov 2019 from https://www.inno-foodproducts-brainbox.com/2018/05/31/which-tests-to-ensure-cosmetic-product-safety/